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A Holiday Letter 2023

Today or tomorrow is Epiphany and if I see a Spanish bakery I’ll try to get the special loaf. If you get the Baby Jesus you are supposed to host the midwinter party.

I’m camped at an off road vehicle camp outside of Santa Clara. I spent last night here and it was great. All the off-roaders leaves before dark. Yesterday there was a class or group or something but it was a bunch of 4-5 year olds rising motorbikes and 4 wheelers around the giant parking lot. Pretty adorable.

Sunrise this morning

I found some good hiking today and went on a heritage trail and a visitors center that had displays on the indigenous folks. Big time weavers. I also hiked to a little waterfall and also climbed up into the hills.

For the holiday season which is wrapping up now I often do an annual recap. I’ll do so now even though I’m way behind on my epic road trip narrative. I’ll probably abandon the play by play of campsites and activities.

2023 found me living in Leavenworth in an apartment in the old Jewish Temple and working as the Executive Director for the Alliance, a domestic violence and sexual assault shelter and program. In January I joined the Executive Board of the Leavenworth/Lansing Chamber of Commerce as the Second Vice Chair.

I submitted a corrective action plan for our certification site visit and the Alliance was granted provisional accreditation. We spent most of 2023 improving sexual assault services and staff training which. We had our targeted site visit in the Fall but we had not received a response before I left in November.

In the spring I slipped on my stairs and hyper-extended my knee. I also learned my knee was a mass of degenerative garbage. I was on crutches and missed a few days of work. It was a real low for me. I had gotten back to 280 pounds, what I weighed when I graduated high school but I’m not 17 anymore.

I started losing weight which accelerated when I learned I may have cirrhosis of the liver. It’s actually more common in obesity then alcohol use. I weighed myself in San Diego and I’m down to 239. I can definitely feel the difference.

I continued to go back to Columbia most months for the Columbia Men’s Book Club. We’re chugging along in maybe our 15th year. I also took a trip to Hays, Kansas because of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egv3IBkBH6Q&pp=ygUaNDkgd2luY2hlc3RlciBoYXlzIGthbnNhcyA%3Dwith with John but 49 Winchester cancelled their show 30 minutes before doors opened.

I went to Harry’s house for Easter and hosted Thanksgiving at John and Flow’s. After Thanksgiving I moved the last of my things to Columbia and cleaned out my apartment. I’d left the Alliance under my former Grants Manager who became the new ED, which made me proud as she is young and off to a great start in her career.

John and Flow and I flew into Maine and went to the Down East, mostly Bar Harbour and Arcadia National Park. It was cool but a lot of traffic and the color was limited.

I left on an Epic Road Trip and have been doing Van Life. I went to Big Bend NP and really enjoyed it. Saw my first javelina and bobcat and a ton of road runners. Great hiking and met Rey who showed me a pictograph and a mortar site by a tank. We heard a mountain lion yowl and found a ton of worked stones.

I also went to Carlsbad Caverns and camped a night with a traveling novelist. I visited Ray, who I met in my epic road trip 2 years ago for Solstice and had a great Yule fire. I also picked up a hitchhiker and took him to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

New Years found me in San Diego reuniting with Steve my best friend in grad school who I hadn’t seen in 25 years. Great visit and I have almost 2 more months for this leg of the trip as I work on my book. I outlined chapter 5 tonight. Going to turn in now and hike in a new spot tomorrow and plan on staying at a Walmart outside of Fresno tomorrow for the rain.

A Holiday Letter 2023

Today or tomorrow is Epiphany and if I see a Spanish bakery I’ll try to get the special loaf. If you get the Baby Jesus you are supposed to host the midwinter party.

I’m camped at an off road vehicle camp outside of Santa Clara. I spent last night here and it was great. All the off-roaders leaves before dark. Yesterday there was a class or group or something but it was a bunch of 4-5 year olds rising motorbikes and 4 wheelers around the giant parking lot. Pretty adorable.

Sunrise this morning

I found some good hiking today and went on a heritage trail and a visitors center that had displays on the indigenous folks. Big time weavers. I also hiked to a little waterfall and also climbed up into the hills.

For the holiday season which is wrapping up now I often do an annual recap. I’ll do so now even though I’m way behind on my epic road trip narrative. I’ll probably abandon the play by play of campsites and activities.

2023 found me living in Leavenworth in an apartment in the old Jewish Temple and working as the Executive Director for the Alliance, a domestic violence and sexual assault shelter and program. In January I joined the Executive Board of the Leavenworth/Lansing Chamber of Commerce as the Second Vice Chair.

I submitted a corrective action plan for our certification site visit and the Alliance was granted provisional accreditation. We spent most of 2023 improving sexual assault services and staff training which. We had our targeted site visit in the Fall but we had not received a response before I left in November.

In the spring I slipped on my stairs and hyper-extended my knee. I also learned my knee was a mass of degenerative garbage. I was on crutches and missed a few days of work. It was a real low for me. I had gotten back to 280 pounds, what I weighed when I graduated high school but I’m not 17 anymore.

I started losing weight which accelerated when I learned I may have cirrhosis of the liver. It’s actually more common in obesity then alcohol use. I weighed myself in San Diego and I’m down to 239. I can definitely feel the difference.

I continued to go back to Columbia most months for the Columbia Men’s Book Club. We’re chugging along in maybe our 15th year. I also took a trip to Hays, Kansas because of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egv3IBkBH6Q&pp=ygUaNDkgd2luY2hlc3RlciBoYXlzIGthbnNhcyA%3Dwith with John but 49 Winchester cancelled their show 30 minutes before doors opened.

I went to Harry’s house for Easter and hosted Thanksgiving at John and Flow’s. After Thanksgiving I moved the last of my things to Columbia and cleaned out my apartment. I’d left the Alliance under my former Grants Manager who became the new ED, which made me proud as she is young and off to a great start in her career.

John and Flow and I flew into Maine and went to the Down East, mostly Bar Harbour and Arcadia National Park. It was cool but a lot of traffic and the color was limited.

I left on an Epic Road Trip and have been doing Van Life. I went to Big Bend NP and really enjoyed it. Saw my first javelina and bobcat and a ton of road runners. Great hiking and met Rey who showed me a pictograph and a mortar site by a tank. We heard a mountain lion yowl and found a ton of worked stones.

I also went to Carlsbad Caverns and camped a night with a traveling novelist. I visited Ray, who I met in my epic road trip 2 years ago for Solstice and had a great Yule fire. I also picked up a hitchhiker and took him to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

New Years found me in San Diego reuniting with Steve my best friend in grad school who I hadn’t seen in 25 years. Great visit and I have almost 2 more months for this leg of the trip as I work on my book. I outlined chapter 5 tonight. Going to turn in now and hike in a new spot tomorrow and plan on staying at a Walmart outside of Fresno tomorrow for the rain.

Meeting Rey (epic road trip 2 #5)

December 18, 2023 2 comments

So I’ve fallen behind in my narrative. When I left I had planned on leaving Big Bend because all the sites at Rio Grande Village were reserved and I was overwhelmed by Recreation.Gov to look at other sites. I decided to hit the hot springs on my way out. The panel of pictographs I hadn’t been able to find popped out and the hot springs were hopping a bit.

Hot Springs are the foundation of the historic bathhouse.

There was a guy sharing a black bear video from earlier in the week and we struck up a conversation. I’ve been doing Stoic spiritual exercises for a week at this point and Rey was also a week into his spiritual journey so we hit it off more than a bit. He posts his stuff at http://www.us385.com

We ran into each other again and ended up going on a hike and I spent a couple more nights at his campsite at Cottonwood. Rey is a great local guide and he took me to an obscure pictograph site our first day and a settlement site with more mortero holes than I’d ever seen at one place.

Took us a bit of time to find the Red Buffalo but we stumbled across this great deer skull.

While we were at the mortero site we found a sheltered ledge by a water tank that was a perfect spot for a mountain lion. There was some scat and we heard it yowling as we were leaving.

Rey was a great guide and we had some wild coincidences besides both being a week into our wilderness/spiritual journeys. We were both wearing green zipper pants and we had both sewed buttons on them the day before. Rey got me paying attention to my dreams. I’ve been aot more rooted in philosophical inquiry and practice/study and less into mystical experience but being dream aware has been a nice addition to my practice.

Walking back from the mortero site Rey showed me how to spot artifacts and we saw a ton of worked stones and some rocks set up as a base for wickiups.

I also saw some pictographs that had been degraded off of Indian Head Road with some better directions then when I couldn’t find them before. Then I explored the Alpine and Marfa area.

I checked out the Museum of the Big Bend and dis some hiking. After that I went up to Fort Davis, which was the best fort so far of the six I’ve seen. I finished up the area at the Chihuahuan Desert Research Center and cactus museum which is definitely worth seeing.

Epic Road Trip 2 #3 (4 forts in Texas)

December 13, 2023 3 comments

Well constant reader, I have made it Great Bend National Park and have been here about 4 days. I made much better time than I planned and the trip has become more and more magical. I am in a campsite in the Cottonwood campground drinking a cup of herbal tea and winding down from the drive in before I turn in. I don’t have a signal so I will work in some photos if I get the chance, if I don’t please excuse the wall of text.

I believe I left off in Oklahoma. Oklahoma has a lack of outdoor recreation that makes it really standout, not only in the West but nationally. The conservation area I camped at probably required a hunting permit. My second night in Oklahoma was in a Walmart parking lot.

The bright spot was the Seminole Museum. They have a number of very cool artifacts and their interpretation tells their story very well. I was somewhat familiar but definitely learned something. They had the longest campaign to force their relocation of any tribe. Basically in 3 waves they were defeated militarily and forced to move over 80 years I believe. A remnant was able to maintain in the swamps and that group ultimately received tribal recognition.

The British encouraged slaves to flee to Florida and they were taken into the Seminole Tribe. I also learned the Seminole were a composite group of remnant tribes decimated by disease that formed the Seminole fairly late in history. A lot of their tribal traditions, like dress, were based on trade goods. Trade cloth was a lot better than buckskins for the Florida heat.

They originally started more northerly in Alabama, Georgia and the panhandle but were pushed deeper into Florida. The museum had cultural artifacts and a lot of contemporary art.  I did enjoy driving the back roads through Oklahoma. I found a conservation area to camp in after crossing into Texas.

I got an early start but backtracked back a bit to Tulsa and went to a park and botanical gardens that also had the historical museum. The Japanese maple were in all their Fall glory and it has been fun to turn back time to the leaves changing as I’ve traveled south.

I visited 4 forts in Texas under different arrangements and in different conditions. Fort Richardson is in a State Park and has preserved buildings and some recreational similar to Fort Scott. The state park has more buildings open but less interpretation and archeology than the feds but provided an overall better experience. The Fort

Fort Phantom Hill was ruins, mostly chimneys and some stone foundations. Fort Chadbourn was privately owned and run by a foundation, with like 4 people doing it. It has a little bit of ruins but mostly reconstruction. It also had the best collection of artifacts. Lots of guns including guns from the Little Big Horn.

The Comanche had killed a couple guys on a mail run, it was precipitated by one of the soldiers but it got them both killed. The Comanche were confronted and threatened with arrest so they seized an officers barracks and forted up. A Lieutenant kicked the door in and got killed for his trouble but the Comanche were defeated. You could still see the bullet holes. There was also soldier graffiti writing Tecumseh, Michigan about 20 miles from where I grew up. Warmed my Yankee heart.

I had a nice talk about running a nonprofit with my museum tour guide and met the ranch owner who grew up with the ruins and learned they were important in college and built the museum and led the reconstruction. His workman consulted on the stabilization of the chimneys at Fort Phantom Hill, which did have an existent magazine. Ammunition storage buildings are mad so thick they stand the test of time.

The last fort was Fort Stockton. It’s owned by the city and run by the local historical society. Not much to it. It was a Buffalo Soldier fort. Noticed it’s guardhouse had chains on the wall and it was the first fort without a bakehouse. They fed those fellows leftover hardtack from the Civil War in 1858. The chaining up was reflective of the harshness of Civil War discipline the interpretation said but I wondered if it wasn’t the fact that they had white officers and Black soldiers?

I got my first hotel a week into the trip at Fort Stockton knowing it was the last cheap city before Big Bend. I finished my tea and will take another trip to the pit toilet before calling it a night.

PostScript: I am at a McDonald’s in Alpine Texas enjoying access to a sink and flush toilet, a second cup of coffee, a couple of sausage biscuits (one would have been better) and crappy wifi. I’m going to slow track to Marfa camping at roadside parks unless I find something better. Researching on how to do Guadalupe Mountains National Park with camping full.

Epic Road Trip 2 #2

December 4, 2023 Leave a comment

My free camping app took me to a conservation area in Oklahoma. The mapping function has degraded or I need to download All Trails because it has been consistently unreliable. I was able to take clues from the description and find it in Google Maps. There was a big camp of presumably hunters but they were quiet and across the campground. I had a nice campfire and heated up a can of spaghettios and toasted some marshmallows.

I drove up to the main road to get a signal and routed to a hiking area west and south. On the drive I stopped for gas and looked at attractions again and backtracked to Tulsa to go to Woodruff Park. It’s a rose garden park which December is not it’s best face. They had some other gardens and this great statue of Linaeus.

There was also a historical society with a museum. I walked through the herb society holiday market but it was all peopley and I’m opting out of Christmas this year with solo travel so it had nothing to offer. Hot cider was tempting but not in a Styrofoam cup.

The museum volunteer was nice and they had a room devoted to the Tulsa Race Massacre. Lots of photos and I learned the Black folks were put in internment camps after which I did not know. An Oklahoma task force examining the issue 25 years or so ago recommended reparations but of course they’re still waiting.

I learned Tulsa was founded by Native Americans, Cherokee I believe but it was light on artifacts. There was a big exhibit on Route 66 and I mentioned that some day car culture would be looked at similarly to the Tulsa Race Massacre, also acknowledging I’m on a road trip. I still took up the offer for a photo.

I also checked out the statuary of Native American ballerinas and finished up with a walk through the collection of the trees as I’d heard the holly was impressive. Not a lot of berries. The Japanese Maples were impressive and rolling back to an earlier stage of Fall is a nice benefit of traveling south.

My next destination was the Seminole Museum. I knew a lot of the history but learned a lot more. The Seminole were a collection of tribal remnants ravaged by disease and were in Florida panhandle and Alabama before being pushed south. Great history of resistance and had to be captured in waves to get sent west. Lots of Black folks fleeing slavery had joined up which drew the ire of the US.

The two newest bands were both Black Seminoles. Those sent to Oklahoma were first put on the Creek Reservation and had a tough time of it. Including Black folks they were threatened by slave owning Creeks. They split over the civil war but most backed the South and took a further beating during reconstruction. Others joined the Black regiments of the North.

The museum was cool, lots of artifacts and in depth interpretation as well as a growing collection of modern Native American art. I don’t have enough signal to post pics. I’m currently camped by the Brazos River Dam. I got in just before dark and enjoyed a nice campfire and had the free campground to myself. I’m going to hike the Brazos today and stay another night to get some time out of the van.

My last night in Oklahoma led me to a Love’s Truck Stop. It was a small car lot with lots of loud trucks so I stayed at a nearby Walmart Parking lot. I brought a sleeping mask and had a good night there. I went back to the truck stop for coffee and my morning constitutional.

It was heavy fog and cool so I read until well after sunrise. I took back roads and drove slow until the sun finally burned away the fog. I wish I could upload pics when I stopped at a graveyard. You can see one on my Facebook page. Mike Trapp Columbia MO, look for the personal page and not my professional page which is not really active.

I’m going to do my morning chores and go for a hike so I’ll leave Ft Richardson for my next post. Thanks for reading. Would love to see comments, questions or whatnot.

Epic Road Trip 2 #1

December 2, 2023 Leave a comment

I cleaned out my apartment and dropped off keys and stuff I was donating and dropped off my router at the Spectrum Store in Olathe. I had also packed the van for the trip. I forgot my cooler and cooler food but I don’t normally travel with that and was as much relieved not to have to mess with it as disappointed.

I added some more stuff but that’s my basic set up. Cot with extra padding and one seat folded up for a chair.
Lot of miles on the 2005 Dodge Caravan but it’s gotten me this far.

I set out for my first campsite a little over an hour south. Since it was night and raining I took the interstate. The next morning I put the “avoid highways” option on Google Maps so I’ll probably end up on more gravel roads than interstate like my last Epic Road Trip. It was a municipal fishing lake with dispersed camping. I think I was the only one there.

It was overcast so not really a sunrise

I heated water in my new heated pitcher that runs off the cigarette lighter. It took about 40 minutes but I made some drip coffee. I have some home roasted to get me started. I only slept fair but that will get easier as I’m more tired. I had some leg cramps from the 40 flights of stairs I climbed packing and cleaning out my second floor apartment.

I did a short hike at a Fort Scott municipal park and read about the flood in the 80’s. The big attraction was the fort which is preserved buildings and some recreated. It was really well done with interesting exhibits. One of the better forts I’ve seen and I’ve been to a bunch.

I’d never heard of Charles Jensen. I also was interested to read about the Indian refugees fleeing the Comanche during the Civil War as I had just read about that in the history of the Comanche I’m reading. I took a lot of bakery pics for my friend Jeff Pavlik who is a historian and baker and is writing a book on the subject.

Fort Scott abuts the fort and I had some lunch and walked around downtown.

I also learned Gordon Parks was from Fort Scott. I went to his museum at the local community college. He was a renaissance man as an important photographer, civil rights activist and directed Shaft amongst other things.

I half assed looked for his grave but it was wet and I was tired and I settled for a monument with some quotations on being a Black guy from there that was pretty cool.

I’m tired so I’ll leave it at that for now. I’m hunkered down in a Walmart parking lot a little north of the Texas border. It was cold and drizzly so I made more miles than I planned. I’ll try to get more succinct and share less pics in future posts.

November 24, 2023 Leave a comment

It’s been a busy time and I haven’t had a chance for an update. I wrapped up my job in Leavenworth 9 days ago. I have been bringing most of my stuff back to my house in Columbia, Missouri and brought in the last load Wednesday evening. In addition to unloading and some unpacking I cleaned house and made a good part of Thanksgiving dinner. Except for not making enough time for getting active minutes it has been a good productive couple of days.

I had a couple friends over and they brought the rest of the dinner and we had quite a feast. I put the most effort into the green bean casserole. I made my own fried onions for the topping as well as a white sauce from scratch. I used canned green beans as using them up was the impetus for the dinner.

I added 2 more batches of fried onions before baking. I wanted to show off the fried red peppers I used to try and get some color.

I also did a turkey breast. I made an herbal rub out of local minced garlic, fresh rosemary and sage out of the garden, thyme, lemon juice, & olive oil. I cooked it in a cup of Northeast Kansas vignole from Z&M Twisted Vines and cooked for 1 1/2 hours at 350.

No final pic but the top side browned nicely and it was moist and tasty

In addition to setting up my stuff I’ve been getting ready for my next epic road trip. I’m putting together my final box of stuff I need from home including: Jumper cables, tow strap, tent, drip coffee top and filters, collapsible bucket, checkbook, & the clothes I wore here.

Task wise I need to file for Obamacare, fill out my personal property tax affirmation, fix my PayPal, authorize my new credit card and water plants. I’m also trying to rake leaves and print a document on the 4 Stoic Virtues that I am going to structure my 31 days of spiritual exercises to ride out 2023 and start off 2024 more disciplined and centered.

I’m planning on leaving Thursday of next week. My last road trip I drove 5,000 miles over 2 months. That seems like a lot but it’s only around 73 miles a day. Gas is the biggest expense considering you have to buy food whatever you’re doing. I like to go slow, stay off the interstate and see all the outdoor attractions on the way.

My first stop will be a municipal playground outside of Fort Scott and I will check out the historical fort. Then on to Paola and Pittsburgh Kansas. After that I want to check out those 2 counties in northeast Oklahoma that are Ozark highlands. Then continuing south through the Oachitas and into Texas.

My first significant site is Big Bend National Park. A couple of weeks there and I’ll head west sticking close to the border and check out Guadalupe National Park and so on. I plan to go on for at least 9 weeks. After my spiritual exercises I’m going to outline and start writing a book. If I get my 300 words + a day and am having fun I’ll keep going west to San Diego and all the soCal sites Anza Berrega, Death Valley, & Joshua Tree. Then up the coast to the East Bay and back to Missouri in the Spring in time to pay my taxes and establish medical care.

All of this is subject to change. I’ve only looked at day 1 camping because if it’s cold I’ll go South quicker. If I’ve not yet committed and weather suggests an alternate itinerary I’m open to that. I did get a Federal Lands Park pass so that is an impetus to go west.

I started reading Empire of the Summer Moon to better understand the history of the area. It has filled in some blank spaces in my knowledge. I’ll likely finish before I set out.

S.C. Gwin gives a fair account but has some misconceptions about the evolution of civilization that showed a lot of ethnocentric judgement against Comanche culture and technology and sometimes makes inaccurate sweeping statements about indigenous North Americans.

That’s about it. Getting ready to turn in. Hiking the High Ridge Trail at Rock Bridge State Park tomorrow morning, raking leaves and seeing the Fried Crawdaddies and a who’s who of local bands doing their Thanksgiving weekend tribute show to The Last Waltz. Thanks for reading this far and please follow along on Epic Road Trip 2. Also please comment your questions, comments and concerns.